When a costume designer receives a script, the process of developing
the visual shorthand for each character begins. Costume sketches,
fashion research and actual garments are used to help costume
designers, directors, and actors develop a common language for
the development of each character. Sometimes a glamorous entrance
may be inappropriate and destructive to a scene. The costume
designer must first serve the story and the director.
The more specific and articulate a costume is, the more effective
it will be with an audience. Minute details loved by actors often
enhance their performances in imperceptible ways.
Many actors credit their costume as a guide to the discovery
of their characters. Actors sometimes need sensitive costume
design for imperfect bodies. Flattering figures, camouflaging
flaws, and enhancing inadequacies are part of the job description.
Costumes are defined and refined, and the process
can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has
its own proscenium.
Nothing within it is left to chance. Each choice of color,
texture, pattern,
and form is deliberate. Like the popular myth of actors improvising
their dialogue: contemporary costumes are often taken for granted
and sometimes seem to magically "appear." Every actor
appearing in front of the camera is scrutinized like a child
on their first day of school. Even the most sophisticated audience
commonly overlooks some of the finest and most effective contemporary
costume design in film and television.
Film is the great collaborative art. The design triumvirate
-- the director of cinematography, the production designer, and
the costume designer -- struggle to create an invented world
to help the director tell his story. A film is one gigantic jigsaw
puzzle. A movie is an enormous architectural endeavor of sets
and lighting and costumes for one time and one purpose. This
minutely crafted kingdom must sit lightly on the shoulders of
the narrative.
Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion.
When a star captures the public's imagination, a film or television
role has catapulted him or her there. A style cycle begins as
this role is recreated in retail fashion to the delight and demand
of fans. The exposure this celebrity brings to a costume generates
millions of dollars for the fashion business. When a film engages
the public's psyche, it is a powerful selling tool for a clothing
manufacturer. Costume designers receive tremendous pride from
seeing their efforts reproduced on a global scale, but little
recognition and no renumeration for setting worldwide trends.
Often the most successful screen imagery spontaneously
becomes iconography. New "classics" feel like they have always
been part of the culture. Yet, costumes never spring from the
public "collective unconscious." Behind every costume
there is a costume designer.
Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social
commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians
who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are
project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe
budgets and battle the economic realities of film production.
Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric
and the human figure.