In 1953, he opened a millinery salon in a Chicago hotel, where
his clientele included film actresses Gloria Swanson and Deborah
Kerr. He trained briefly with Charles James, the great fashion
designer. In 1958, he joined LILLY DACHE in New York, moving
shortly after to the millinery salon of Bergdorf Goodman's New
York department store. Halston designed hats for Jacqueline Kennedy
including a beige felt pillbox that was widely copied. She wore
many pillbox hats with the dresses which Oleg Cassini designed
for her.
In 1966, Halston began designing ready-to-wear garments, leaving
Bergdorf Goodman to open his own business. Halston Ltd., was
founded in 1968 on Madison Avenue, New York.
During the late 60's and early 70's Halston established a reputation
as a designer of knitwear, sweaters and wide legged jersey trousers.
He also made turtlenecks, long slinky halter-neck dresses, cashmere
dresses for day and evening, sweater sets and boxy square jackets
and coats. American socialites considered him the best evening
wear designer. He also tie-dyed chiffon and used matte jersey
in many of his collections. In 1972, he made a shirtwaister of
Ultrasuede which inspired many imitations. Ultrasuede was considered
to be a Halston trademark.
In the 60's, designer Stephen Sprouse worked at the house of
Halston for 3 years.
In 1973, Norton Simon incorporated Halston's business for $
12 million and named this new division of its conglomerate Halston
Enterprises Inc. In 1978, he moved all his activities to the
Olympic Towers Building, in Manhattan, New York.
His popularity in the 70's made him a social figure, most famously
among the set that frequented New York's Disco named Studio 54.
Bianca Jagger and Liza Minelli were friends and clients.
Halston was famous for his draped jersey dresses and lean trouser
suits. He was very much inspired by classical Greek and Roman
draping.
In 1983, Halston signed with J.C. Penney, the large department
store, for a cheaper line, which caused many of his higher class
clientele to leave him. In 1984, he attempted to regain ownership
of his custom business and designer ready-to-wear but was unable
to do so, and went out of business.
He died on 26th March 1990 when only 58 years old.
In the year 2000, the city of New York decided
to honour American fashion designers by placing bronze plaques
along 7th Avenue,
the great street of fashion in New York. This was called the "FASHION
WALK OF FAME'. Halston was one of those honoured, and here
is a picture of his plaque.
Various designers have looked after the house of Halston. Randolph
Duke from 1997-1998, his assistant Kevan Hall 1998-1999, followed
by Craig Natiello who left in November 2001.
Thai-born Piyawat joined Halston in April 2001. He was earlier
with Anne Klein, Adrienne Vittadini and Vivienne Tam. When Craig
Natiello left, he took over the design for Halston. He presented
a successful Fall/Winter 2002 collection, followed by another
for Spring/Summer 2003.
Bradley Bayou
The latest designer at the house of Halston
is Bradley Bayou (shown on the right). Bradley is a Texan,
6'4" tall, born
in 1956 who is well-known for his extravagant couture gowns.
Bayou joined Halston in December 2002 and has created the collections
for Fall 2003 and for Spring/Summer 2004 which was shown during
New York Fashion Week in September 2003.
Bradley does frequent guest spots on TV shows
like "The
View" and dresses celebrities like Oprah, Debra Messing
and even Queen Latifah on Oscar night. He is a great admirer
of Halston, and plans to bring his original style up to modern
times.
Bradley's show for Spring 2004 consisted of 20 pieces shown
to a very select crowd belonging to New York's social register.
They nodded and smiled as each model stopped so that they could
examine the clothes. Bayou captured the essence of Halston -
seductive and glamorous evening wear intermixed with casual and
chic daywear. All the gowns were suitable for red-carpet appearances
with exquisite detailing, and craftsmanship. Laser cutting done
in Switzerland was the secret, Bradley said.
Film of the life of Halston
It is reported that a film is under production depicting the
life of Halston, who will be played by Alec Baldwin. It will
show the fashion icon and the life he led. Filming is due to
start in Autumn 2004. Liza Minelli will probably play herself
but there is no news about other stars who will play the celebrities
who attended Studio 54 with him in the 1970's.
Fall/Winter 2004