Dior’s work helped bring Paris out of the dark days of
the war and restored the city to the forefront of fashion. His ‘New
Look’, revealed in 1947, featured prominent shoulders,
narrow waists and accentuated bust-lines, leading the line to
be dubbed ‘Figure 8’, suggesting the silhouette it
created. He continued to produce themed lines and in the spring
of 1953 he introduced the ‘Tulip’ line. Featuring
an abundance of soft, billowy flower prints, the line suggested
the light airy spring of the rejuvenated Paris. In 1955 he came
out with the ‘A-line’, an undefined waistline and
sleek silhouette that widened as it extended down over the hips
and legs, resembling a capital “A”.
Dior also created men’s wear lines at this time. Combining
and contrasting soft to hard lines and tromp l’oeil details,
he brought men’s wear into the modern world with forward-looking
design. Yves Saint-Laurent became his assistant in 1953 and
together they created some of the most influential fashions
of the last
century.
Dior’s health began to deteriorate
later in life. Toward the end of his life he was taking
numerous injections
to wake
up in the morning, to prod his appetite, and to help him sleep.
Members of his family blamed his manager, claiming she was
pushing him to the brink of death. His older brother Raymond,
with whom
he had always feuded even as children, agreed, and the rift
caused him to disinherit his close family.
Dior, who suffered from heart trouble, apparently died of a
heart attack while attempting to lose weight at a spa in Montecatini,
Italy. His death, however, is surrounded by rumors of late night
gallivanting with young lovers while at the spa. Whatever the
cause, his untimely death left the world without a fashion leader
for many years.